Monday, June 16, 2008

Let them eat petrol

Last week all over Spain truck drivers went on strike. The reason was simple: Gasoline prices are ballooning; working now actually costs more money than many workers make.

Andrés and I don’t pay much attention to the price of gasoline. We don’t have a car. Hell, he doesn't even have a driving license. We live in a city with a decent public transport system and we really only use it when we don’t feel like walking or biking, which isn’t very often. Of course, though, the current rise in oil prices manifests itself in other places. Our flights home this year were unmentionably expensive. And, of course, the prices of most commodities have gone up.

Last week, the transport sector decided they had had enough. For five days they refused to pick up or deliver anything. They spent that time sitting in the right hand lane of every major highway in Spain, greatly disturbing traffic patterns. This in a country that thinks the number of wheels on the road is directly proportionate to its ranking in the first world.

So, for five days: Nothing picked up, nothing delivered. Not even the mail.

Photos in the local papers showed farmers in Galicia dumping milk into the fields; fruits and vegetables left to rot in warehouses; and tattooed truck drivers sitting stubbornly in the cabs of their great trucks, refusing to budge.

Naturally, people panicked.

By Wednesday every supermarket in Barcelona had been picked clean. I went to the Sant Antoni market and it looked like Sunday. I went to Bon Preu and I was met with an apocalyptic sight. The produce section contained nothing but empty fruit crates, a rotting head of lettuce and, oddly enough, a few organic avocados and tomatoes, which I promptly decided to buy. The meat and poultry section loomed in iridescent whiteness at the back of the store. The shelves containing rice and pasta had been picked bare. There was no bottled water, no cartons of milk. The remaining jarred and tinned goods stood like solitary figures on the desert landscape of the preserves aisle. It looked as though people were preparing for war. (Or at the very least a snowstorm in the North East).

But Andrés and I didn’t panic. In fact, we spent the greater part of last week picking our own cupboards bare, endeavouring to produce good meals without actually purchasing much of anything. And it was fun.

It did become frighteningly clear, though, how inexorably tied we are to oil; how powerless we are in front of our dependence on oil, and how little we have done to protect ourselves from the consequences of that dependence. Oil is inextricably tied to our most basic needs and we've just sat back and watched it happen.


***

Things are back to normal today. Prices have been jacked up three times what they were nine days ago. The businesses are merely trying to make up for the losses they suffered last week.

But the lessons of last week do not forebode well; they linger. One of the most disturbing images of the ‘crisis’ was a police escort for half a dozen oil tankers, provided by the government to make sure the service stations continued working as normal. There were no special trucks employed for food or water. No police escort. As far as sustenance goes it would appear that petrol trumps all.

***

Here are some of our favorite recipes from last week. This section is titled "Scavengers' delight".

Black Bean and Orange Soup
We always have plenty of dried or jarred pulses on hand. The dried are mostly for slow cooking; the jarred to prepare hummus for unexpected guests or whip up a quick lentil soup. This being Spain, there are always oranges. The soup gets thick once it cools. It can be re-heated and served over rice or used as stuffing for a fajita or burrito.

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, minced
1/2 teaspoon salt
6 medium garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons dried oregano
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1/8 teaspoon ground clove
2 15 oz. cans black beans
1 teaspoon orange zest (optional)
1 cup orange juice, preferably freshly squeezed
1 bay leaf
Sea salt and fresh ground pepper

Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven, over medium heat. Add the onion and salt and saute until soft, 10-12 minutes. Add the garlic, oregano, cumin, and cloves and saute until fragrant, 1 minute.

Add 1 cup beans, orange zest, orange juice, and 1 cup water. Mash the beans with a fork. Simmer, uncovered over medium-high heat, until liquid is reduced and thickened, five minutes.

Add the remaining beans, bay leaf, and 6 cups water. Simmer, uncovered, for 25-30 minutes, until soup is fragrant and somewhat thick.

Serve.


Pumpkin, Red Pepper, and Zuchinni Curry

We had a zucchini and half a red pepper lying around. And the only thing left at the veggie stand on Mistral was a small pumpkin, which I thought was funny.

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, chopped
2 teaspoons cumin
1 teaspoons turmeric
1/2 teaspoon clove
1/2 small pumpkin, peeled and cubed (about 1 cup)
1/2 red pepper, cut into 1/2 inch chunks
1 can coconut milk
1 zucchini, cubed
Basmati rice

Heat the oil in a large deep frying pan or wok over medium heat. Add the onion and salt and saute until soft, 10-12 minutes. Add cumin, turmeric, and clove and saute until fragrant, 1 minute.

Add pumpkin and saute until browned, 5 minutes. Add red pepper and saute for 2-3 minutes.

Add coconut milk and simmer, partially covered over medium heat, until liquid is reduced and pumpkin is soft, 15-20 minutes.

Serve over rice.


Quick Tomato Sauce

I gave Andrés a pasta maker for Christmas and every Saturday or Sunday we have homemade pasta, which requires nothing but egg and flour. I usually make the sauce. Last Sunday all we had was a large can of whole, peeled tomatoes.

1 can of chopped tomatoes, including juice
4 large cloves of garlic, crushed
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup red wine
2 teaspoons dried thyme
1 teaspoon honey
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese

In a medium saucepan over medium heat combine tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, red wine, thyme, honey, fresh ground pepper, and salt. Simmer, uncovered, for 20-25 minutes.

Serve over pasta with plenty of freshly grated Parmesan cheese.

Thursday, June 05, 2008

Juice

I first tried carrot juice fifteen years ago in Seth's kitchen. He presented me with a glass of fresh juice and dared me to try it. It looked funny, too orange. I was apprehensive. Raw carrot juice was for people like Seth and his dad, Ira--people whom I thought were obsessively concerned with health and wellness. Not me.

In the blossom of my high school years, I was insufferable. I ate whatever I wanted. I smoked. I was a weekend binge drinker. I gained thirty pounds every summer, and then lost it all again in October before wrestling season. I never wore a seat belt. Still years away from any real sense of accountability or adulthood, I was invincible--a portrait of hubris, clueless and stoned.

And yet, carrot juice intrigued me.

"If you drink this," Seth said, "You'll feel so stoned."

"Really?"

"Drink it."

So I drank. It tasted sharp and sweet and potent, like some exotic liquor. Ten minutes later, I didn't feel stoned; I felt horrible, doubled over in pain. He explained how my system, in its state of toxicity, was most likely rebelling against the juice, which was all wholesomeness and purity.

Spitting curses, I refused to believe him. I stayed away from carrot juice for a long time.

***

I hated vegetables as a child.

Because mom only knew how to overcook vegetables, I ate them overcooked. Boiling was her preferred method: death by water. By the time she finished cooking, the color and nutrients would bleed out, staining the water a deeper color than the vegetables themselves.

In section IV of The Wasteland, Death by Water, T.S. Elliot writes of Phlebas, the drowned Phoenecian sailor, whose lifeless body bobs like a cork in the water for two weeks:

"Phlebas the Phoenecian, a fortnight dead,
Forgot the cry of gulls, and the deep sea swell
And the profit and the loss.
A current under sea
Picked his bones in whispers."

Floating with the tide, his salt-bleached skin and bloated impotent form remind me of my mother's vegetables--the look, the taste. Stacked on my plate, their limp, pale bodies were grim reminders of the life they once contained. Neutered, languid, and nutritionally vacant, there could be no rebirth; their nutrients would not pass on to me. They were truly dead.

No wonder I hated eating them.

***

Throughout history, philosophers like Aristotle have tried to pin down the nature of essence--to describe it as something that contains the whole of a thing, even in infinitesimal quantities. To be an "essence" means to have one hundred percent of the qualities or properties of a thing in only a small fraction of its true form.

Think spark as an essence of fire. Think soul as an essence of life. Think vegetable juice as the essence of the vegetable itself.

By drinking vegetable juice, you are getting nearly the full essence, almost one hundred percent of the nutritional benefit, minus the matter or roughage. In other words, the nutrients are directly absorbed into the bloodstream for an unparalleled energy boost.

This is why many people become obsessed with the health benefits of juicing. To some, it becomes an entire lifestyle. There is an entire web-based niche market devoted to these type of people. Think Jack Lalane . Think this guy.

Yet that seems to be the allure. Most people who juice are not part-time dilettantes. They are enrapt with the juicing idea and lifestyle. Many juicers are eccentric, extreme people.Their clothing and fingertips are permanently stained purple from cutting slicing raw beets. You can find them stalking the supermarket produce aisle late at night because they know this is the time when produce boys, in green aprons and plastic gloves, begin to stock the shelves with fresh vegetables. They are the ones who ask for organic kale. They are the ones who buy the purple chard and mustard greens.

I'm thinking of one evening last week: It's 11:30 p.m. and I have nothing in the fridge to juice in the morning. I have to pick up some vegetables. Now. I hop in the car and drive forty-five minutes to the only late-night supermarket I know in Manhattan. Save for the hum and crackle of the lights, the store is silent and empty. I walk to the produce section. The machine that sprays water vapor on the leafy greens in has gone haywire, spraying its misty arc randomly into the air over the aisle; it creates a barely perceptible shimmer in the florescent light. It looks unreal, chilly.

We moved days before, and all of my clothing is still in boxes. I've been wearing the same baggy, white linen pants, moccasins, and blue shirt for four days and haven't showered in quite some time.

I run my hand over the heads of broccoli. I scratch the itchy, week-long growth on my chin. I think to myself as I walk through the water mist, a plastic basket hung through my arm, What the hell am I doing here?

For the first time I realize I am truly a juicer. I smile. The wheat grass looks so fresh. So green.

***

Juicing requires devotion, if only for the time it takes to prepare the vegetables, juice them, break down the machine, clean its parts, and reassemble it. For the uninitiated, it can be a long process. Many people who give up on juicing do so for this reason. I now have the cleanup stage down to about 5 minutes, but it took me a few years to get there.

Like fasting and cleansing, juicing is also a something people use for detox and healing. Many people use juice fasts as a way to kick-off a longer, more comprehensive health recovery or weight loss regimen. Others include juicing into their daily, long-term routines.

While researching juicing regimens on the web, I came across many sites devoted to juicing leafy green vegetables like kale, chard, spinach, bok choi, wheat grass, collard greens, and cabbage. The idea is the greener it is, or the more chlorophyll contained in the vegetable, the better it is for you. Unfortunately, leafy greens can taste pretty bad compared to beets, carrots and other sugar laden vegetables.

My juicing regimen used to consist of carrots and beets. I often juiced whole bags of carrot. Then I realized how much sugar I was putting into my body. Since then, I've stuck primarily to leafy greens, with a few carrots and beets thrown in for taste.

When I first tried juicing greens, I was surprised to see my shabby, forty-dollar centrifugal juicer produce such high quality juice from leafy greens. I expected a frothy mess with little or no good juice. But it all went well--not much foam either. It even rivals what some of the fancy juicers can do.

It ain't absinthe, but it'll get you high.

The first time I made it, I didn't drink it right away. I was a little awed. I bent down to look into it closely. I moved it around in the light and studied it for awhile. Smelling the foam, I decided it was the greenest thing I had ever seen. If the color green had a scent, it was this. It held me spellbound for awhile, lost in its depths. Gearing up for the worst, I took a little sip. It wasn't bad. Shocked, I downed half of the glass. It wasn't bad at all--nowhere near the bitter, acrid bile I was expecting. It was even a bit refreshing.

I can do this, I thought.

I lift the glass again.

***

It's now 5:15 am. I have to be at work in three hours. I just finished cleaning my juicer in the sink, a once tedious, time-consuming process that I now complete in no time at all.

A twenty-ounce glass of cabbage, spinach, garlic and carrot juice stands before me, taunting me with its bitter potency. I think back to the first time I tried juice all those years ago in Seth's house. In defiance, I pick up the glass and down the whole thing like a tequila shot. I stand up. There's a rumbling going on somewhere in the depths of my bowels. I sit back down.

I feel funny. I think I'm stoned.

I should call out of work today.


This produced 16 ounces of juice.


Steve's Green Juice:

All ingredients should be used fresh, preferably bought the same day. I use a centrifugal juicer, in which a spinning metal blade grinds the vegetables, expelling the juice from one end, while catching the roughage in a container at the other end. Most people say that leafy greens are best juiced in a single auger or manual press juicer.

Also, remember to use only organic produce while juicing. This is important. You don't want to consume super-concentrated levels of pesticides and agri-chemicals.

1 medium sized cucumber
2 celery stalks
a lot of spinach
1 head bok choi (green part only)
1 large handful cilantro
1 olive-sized piece ginger

(If you want, add a few carrots or some beet for taste, but you'll lose that fabulous green color.)

Sunday, May 25, 2008

Hay calçots

Here in Barcelona we have tomatoes in January. This is thanks to the enormous greenhouses in southern Spain, in a region called Murcia. It is said that the greenhouses in Murcia are so large that they are one of the few manmade objects that can be seen from space.

The tomatoes from these greenhouses are not very good. Greenhouses of space-age proportions do not provide the best environment in which to nourish food that nourishes. But they do create an environment that is able to fuel the ‘get what you want when you want it culture’ that is now permeating Europe since it was first imported from the United States some fifteen years ago.

And what the greenhouses are unable to provide can always be imported from China.

But it is not January. It is the end of May. And the rains we so desperately hoped for in April have finally begun to fall. The end of the drought is tentatively announced. The city’s water supply has risen to such a level that the ban on watering gardens has been lifted and the fountains have begun flowing again. The air smells greener. For the last few months they have been bringing water up from the Murcian desert, together with the tomatoes.

Yes, the rains of May have washed away the dirty threat of water rationing, which will not be missed. But they also mark the passing of a season that comes but once a year to Catalonia whose return next year we all look forward to.

The season of the calçot.


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Calçots are in the onion family. They have been described as a cross between a leek and a spring onion or green onion, without actually having any direct relation to any of the three. Calçots are now the only food that you really have to wait for. Tomatoes in January. Plums in March. Mangoes when you want them. Mangoes don’t even grow here. They import them from Brazil. But not the calçot. You can only find them from February to April. By the end of April they’re hard to come by. And you can only find them in Catalonia, particularly in the province of Tarragona. It is a culinary tradition that Catalans hold fast to. And to see how the Mediterranean diet they delusionally lay claim to is being replaced by fritanga and meals that come in boxes, it is truly heartening to spot the Hay calçots signs that begin to spring up in restaurant windows just when the buzz from the holidays has worn off.

The calçot is one of the last bastions of locally produced and, perhaps even more importantly, locally celebrated foods remaining here.

And how they are celebrated!

The calçot, like any good food, is as much ritual as it is nourishment. It is celebrated in such ritualistic fashion not recommended for the faint of heart. They are traditionally grilled over open flame and eaten as an accompaniment to grilled lamp and are usually served in clay roof tiles sometimes lined with newspaper. When they hit the table, the rite begins and everything you ever learned about table manners and proper etiquette is roguishly pushed aside.


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It is a ritual only for those who don’t mind getting their hands dirty. Oh, it is messy – your fingers blackened with the soot of the grill as you peel off the first layer of skin, which slides off easily, to get to the sweet warm center. The soot mixes with the calçot's sticky juices and gets under your fingernails and refuses to leave.

And it is a ritual only for those who don’t mind looking ridiculous. Calçots are usually eaten standing up. The first layer of skin is peel away and the calçot dipped into salsa romesco, a reddish sauce made with hazelnuts and red peppers. The appropriate stance must then be taken. Some find it most comfortable to stand with their feet shoulder-width apart, knees slightly bent. The head is tilted back and the calçot, dripping with romesco sauce, is raised over the head and lowered into the mouth, inadvertently getting sauce all over your face and occasionally in your hair. Bibs are recommended for novices.

And it is a ritual only for those who relish in copious amounts of red wine and laughter, as everyone enjoys the fun and soot and ridiculousness of the moment. The addictiveness and the deliciousness of the rite ensures that twenty to thirty calçots will be eaten per person. Bloated bellies promise that the subway ride home is to be among giggles and accidental gas leaks. So it should be added that is also a ritual only for those who are comfortable making references to bodily functions in the presence of friends and strangers alike. It also helps to find the word pedo absolutely hilarious.


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Bibs are recommended for neophytes

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Pablo and Ingrid do it standing up

My father, who is blind, has said that the day he finally tries calçots we should place a napkin or tablecloth over his face and later frame the resulting Pollack. I like this connection between Jackson Pollack and calçots. Perhaps that’s the food he would have been. A calçot – fun and reckless and messy and served with plenty of red wine.

Saturday, May 03, 2008

This Tastes Weird

I started cooking for others when I was six or seven years old. I made a hamburger for my best friend Jared. It was a Play-Doh hamburger. I stuffed it with little rocks and I presented it to Jared, jammed in a Stroehman's bun.

"Go ahead," I said.

"This looks weird," he said.

Honestly, Jared was my enemy. I hoped he might die. At the very least, I hoped he might stop spending so much time with my real best friend, Chris. Jared actually tried the burger. He was a troubled kid, clueless and adventurous.

"This tastes weird," he said, chewing little rocks.

My early forays into cooking were always like this: I'd throw some shit together and see what happened. After The Jared Incident (as it came to be known in my house) I started experimenting with real, edible food, the type of food one swallows and digests. Still, my evil, youthful urge was to fuck around with people, so my early creations were always disgusting.

I enjoyed combining things (soda, mustard, bananas, for example) and blending them into a smoothie. I used a lot of ketchup, a lot of eggs (raw ones), and I'd make my little sister try everything. My sister, god bless her soul, developed a cute little eating disorder.

I never tried my own recipes. I learned my lesson early on, after a failed attempt to replace milk with Diet Coke in a traditional recipe. The recipe was Honey Nut Cheerios and milk. The Diet Coke gave it a tinny, disgusting medicinal taste.

Then something happened. One summer day I was hanging around, plucking honeysuckle flowers. I pinched the bottom, pulled out the stamen, and sucked the little drop of nectar, so exquisite and sweet. After about fifty flowers, I was struck with a profound inspiration: Why not make honeysuckle juice? I actually tried. I pulled out the stamen and deposited the nectar into a little Dixie cup. After two, three hours I had maybe one half teaspoon of nectar. I went inside, mixed the nectar with some water in a little shot glass and presented the drink it to my sister.

"I'm telling!" she said, which was what she always said.

Somehow, though, I convinced her to try it. She gulped it, actually.

"This tastes good?" she said.

I found this immensely satisfying, far more satisfying than, "This tastes weird." Sure it took me three hours to make the goddamn recipe. Sure my sister's gulp seemed brief and insignificant--but man, I'd made something good! That was new. That was surprising.

***

Today I make a living developing recipes. I make my recipes, and I let people try them. I feel genuine, heartfelt satisfaction when people try my recipes. I get a sincere kick out of watching people eat food I've made. I get so happy, too, when people love my food, when they smile and feel joyful, even if it's a tiny joy, a brief interlude in an otherwise ordinary day.

I try many of my own recipes, but I do have many recipes I've developed that I haven't ever tried. My diet is strange and idiosyncratic. I avoid many foods and food combinations. I'm allergic to some dishes, "sensitive" to others, and sometimes scared of others. If I eat a scallop I might die. If I eat pasta I develop a migraine headache. And something like eggplant just freaks me out. My eating disorder is strange and real.

Obviously, as a professional, I can't avoid these foods in my recipes. So I work on instinct, feeling my way through my recipes, and then I let other people tell me what they think.

I cook a kick-ass scallop (sauteed, lightly, in compound butter), I'm told. My Kasha Varnishkes, I'm told, would make my Jewish grandmother proud. And eggplant? Well, fuck eggplant.

Sometimes, when I think about these recipes, I feel like a sad clown: everyone else is laughing, but I'm crying inside. In my case, everyone's eating my recipes, getting plump and happy, and I'm on the sidelines, sipping my tea, feeling skinny and weird.

A Suzanne paperclip photo


I think my most unique recipe is my Strawberry Avocado Salsa. I developed the recipe nearly three years ago for a strawberry festival and it was a instant, smash hit. Since then, at work at least, the recipes become my signature recipe, qualified by co-workers and customers alike as quintessentially Seth.

I love the way the salsa looks upon completion. I'm a big advocate of the disparate ingredients: strawberries, avocado, cilantro, scallions,
jalapeño, and lime. Still, there's something about the combination of all these ingredients that scares me, and so I've never once even tried it. Not one single bite. I'm aware that this sounds ludicrous, even, perhaps from a cook's perspective, unethical.

What can I say? Strawberry Avocado Salsa sort of reminds me of my early creations--something that tastes weird. I envision myself eating it and feeling weird for hours.

I suppose I'm writing about this because I've recently thought I might try the recipe, perhaps paired with thinly sliced sweet potatoes, pan-seared in olive oil. I'm thinking about it, making my way there. It's a huge thing for me.

In the meantime, I'll keep making it for others, getting my kicks vicariously, with each little joyful bite.

Strawberry Avocado Salsa

I've already published this recipe on-line, elsewhere. That recipe is good, but I'm changing it a bit, below, in an attempt to "reclaim" the recipe for FoodVibe. Consider this recipe below the definitive Strawberry Avocado Salsa recipe, straight from the source. This recipe is about gentle, exquisite preparation. I suggest taking your time, following the recipe precisely...

1 pound strawberries
1 jalapeño pepper, minced
1/4 cup scallion, finely chopped
2 tablespoons cilantro, finely chopped
1 lime, quartered
1/4 teaspoon sugar, optional
sea salt
2 firm-ripe avocados

Remove the green stems from the strawberries. Gently chop the strawberries, using clean, swift knife strokes so that each chopped piece is only touched briefly by the knife.

In small bowl, gently, very gently, toss the strawberries with the jalapeño, scallion, and cilantro. Squeeze a quarter of lime onto the strawberry salsa and season with sugar, if desired, and sea salt.

Half the avocados, remove the pit and the skin. Finely, and very smoothly and carefully, dice the avocados and place into a small bowl. Squeeze two quarters lime juice onto the avocado and gently toss.

Pour strawberry salsa in the bowl with the avocados. Gently toss. Season with additional salt and lime juice, if desired. Serve...

Tuesday, April 15, 2008

On Cleansing and Fasting

I must have looked like a monster.

I was sitting in the front seat of my car, parked at a fire hydrant alongside a busy Bronx sidewalk. I had a crazed look in the eye, my face seemingly smeared with blood, dripping from the chin. Teeth gnashing, I rolled down the window to spit out a mouthful of carnage, trailing a line of saliva from my bottom lip to the curb. People on the sidewalk took a wide berth of my car—afraid to look too closely, afraid they might see the scattered, half-eaten limbs of children strewn across the back seat.

Afraid I might eat them too.

I was only eating a pomegranate, barehanded, with no napkin or utensils. I forgot to get them from the guy at the fruit stand.

It was the fifth day of a week-long cleansing fast. I was sucking out the juice, spitting whole mouthfuls of seeds into the street. At the time, I was too delirious with hunger, too high from fasting to care what I looked like. I was only concentrating on the taste of the juice in my mouth: a supernova of sweet, a cataclysmic explosion on my starved palate.

I had never tasted a pomegranate like this before.

It was pure intoxication.

I closed my eyes. The feeling went straight to my head. I swooned. I was woozy. I wanted to lean out the window, pump both fists in the air and scream to the world, “YES! YES! YES!”

***

For a week, I did the Master Cleanse, otherwise known as the Lemonade fast. I ate no food and drank only a concoction of filtered water, freshly squeezed organic lemon juice, raw honey, and cayenne pepper.

I couldn’t swallow the pomegranate seeds because I hadn’t eaten anything solid in a week. To do so would have seriously messed me up. You can’t just start eating right away after a long fast. You ease your digestive system back into gear with a few days of juices and broths slowly working your way to the hard stuff like meat, dairy, wheat, or alcohol.

That afternoon, I sucked the juice of three large pomegranates in my car.

I was gorged by the time I drove away; the street behind me oozed red like a crime scene.

***

I find something so attractive in the idea of the cleanse. As if, through fasting, we can correct everything wrong with our bodies and ourselves. It’s the ultimate romantic notion—that by simply cleansing ourselves we can seemingly fix our past, or even repair the broken relationships in our lives.

The Internet is rife with websites devoted to fasting, cleansing and natural healing remedies. Some sites have shocking photos of mucoid plaque, gall stones, kidney stones, and other physical monstrosities expelled from peoples’ bodies during a cleanse. Page after page offers ecstatic testimony: "Fasting saved my life!" "Fasting cleared my acne!" "Fasting cured my cancer."

Many of these testimonies delve deeply into the idealism and mysticism of self-purification—that you can fast and cleanse yourself to a perfect body and soul.

While I do believe several of those testimonies, the idea of cleansing this way comes very close to the misguided idea that one can get something for "nothing", that one can reap maximum benefits from a minimum effort or sacrifice. (Remember those BMG music club offers of twelve CD’s for a penny? If only it were true...)

Yet isn’t that what repentance is all about? That we can somehow fix ourselves? That it can happen in a moment or quicker? Isn’t fasting a sort of atonement?

I think life is much harder. Life requires more work.

While fasting has many untold healing and spiritual benefits, there seems to be also a sort of delusion involved for the many dilettantes who swear by it. It can all get out of hand. Approached incorrectly, fasting can be dangerous. One can become carried away with the idea of self-righteousness and purification, to the point where you end up like the kid in Into The Wild. Tragic and pointless.

I must admit, though, sometimes I imagine myself plunging headlong into a twenty, thirty, or fifty day cleansing fast, wasting away into nothing. Renouncing my possessions and my material life, I’d roam barefoot and ghostlike among the streets of New York in a lightheaded stupor. My clothes become shabby, my hair dreaded and matted. From the alley, I stare up at the windows of other peoples’ homes, meditating on the shadow that my life has become like a character in a Paul Auster novel.

I have that in me somewhere. I have to be careful.

***

In spite of my skepticism I keep coming back. I continually find myself seeking out fasting lore and methodology. I planned my latest fast weeks in advance, allowing myself to become obsessed, gearing up the whole time. I did a mini six-day fast leading up to Pesach. It was fantastic.

I’ve always been fascinated by the ascetic mystic, the holy person, the person who has mastered the act of fasting. People like Siddhartha, Gandhi, and the Jewish monarch David are among those who have been able to, through an entire lifetime of fasting and discipline, turn their bodies into conduits for the Divine. By overcoming and mastering their physicality they were seemingly able to perfect their souls in the process. Something about that process resonates deeply within me.

I lust for it.

Fasting plays a prominent role in Jewish mysticism


Anyone who has ever fasted will attest to this idea—that fasting is a process, which, through the negation of the physical, sharpens and hones our spiritual proclivities. It seems to open up something deep within the immaterial parts of our being.

Fasters of this type are spiritual giants. They've worked hard and long at it, and are people who have cultivated the silent spaces within themselves. They have mastered how to make the body serve the soul.

But then there others--people obsessed with non-medical natural healing theories and cleansing rituals. You'll find them on any number of websites peddling their wares: colonics, herbal supplements, enemas, fasting regimens, liver flushes and detox programs. Most of these people have no legitimate medical background and dubious credentials, but they beam with pride and sanctimony about how healthy and vigorous they are.

They scare me.

Months ago I walked into my local health store in search of a good colon-cleansing product. It was during my first attempt at a cleansing fast, and I was rapt with the idea of flushing any trace of toxicity from my body.

The short man behind the counter looked like he could have been of Indian descent. Or Arabian. Or South American. Or Chinese. His black hair fell over his shoulders and hung halfway down his back. He wore a cobalt blue colored frock at knee length. A piece of topaz set into a leather string hung from his neck. His dark eyes, set deep into his face, gave him the appearance of one who could have been forty years old. Or sixty. Or one hundred. Behind him was a woman with bright crimson-dyed hair. She sat cross-legged on a high stool. She was smoking and laughing at something she was reading.

“Can I help you?” asked the man.

“Yes. I’m looking for a good colon cleanser.”

“Ah,” he said, lifting one eyebrow, leaning on both hands firmly planted on the counter. “Why?”

“Well, I’m in the middle of a cleansing fast, and I want to do a colon flush at the same time.”

I found myself explaining my fasting regimen to him—when I started, what I was drinking, how long I planned to go, why I was doing it. I felt unsure of myself. What was I even saying? Who was this guy? He looked like a short, swarthy version of The Vampire Lestat. I wanted to leave.

“Wait here,” he said, and walked into the back.

The lady on the stool put down the magazine and looked up at me. Her hair was too high, too red. She wore too much foundation. Seeming to read my mind, she spoke in a thick Russian accent, “Don’ worry,” she said. “Is good.”

“Excuse me?”

“Is good,” she repeated, “We take care of you.”

I didn’t have time to respond. The man returned from the back room with two large bottles. One contained a solution of water and bentonite clay. The other, an economy-sized jar of Super Cleanse tablets—a mixture of herbs and fiber promising to “detoxify, cleanse, and rebuild”.

He explained the regimen I must undergo to use these products effectively, and how the result would be a healthy, pink, clean colon. He also said I should drink 2 ounces of fresh squeezed lemon juice mixed with a glass of filtered water every morning upon waking. As he spoke he lifted each eyebrow at different times for effect. He voice was raspy. He spoke slowly, leaned close, as if he were whispering secrets.

I turned the bottles over in my hand. He turned away to the cash register to ring the sale.

“I’m also drinking Goji juice in the morning,” I added.

At that, I noticed a slightly perceptible shudder pass through his body. He quaked, closed the cash drawer, spun around quickly.

“You got the Goji?” he stammered, eyebrows going haywire as if I had uttered a verbal cue to let him know that I, too, was a part of an ancient, esoteric, secret society.

“Um,” I said, “Yes. I got it last week.”

“This is good,” he spoke fervently, “this is very good.”

“Yes,” said the Russian woman on the chair, “Is good.”

I paid for the clay solution and cleansing tablets and got the hell out of there.

***

In the end, I always come back.

Even as I write this, I've just finished my second cleansing fast, and am still thinking about it. I’m thinking what people who know have told me—that the most important part of any fast is what comes after. That is, how the fast has changed your perceptions about health and wellness to the point that it has permanently changed your habits.

Because your body exists in such a delicate stasis while on an extended fast, you really see how the things you put into your body affect your energy level, mental acuity, and spirituality.

As a result, I have made some drastic lifestyle and wellness changes that I can see lasting for a long time, hopefully forever. So in that sense, the fast was a success.

But on a more important level, fasting has made me realize a few other things.

First, I noticed how much time we spend preparing food, eating food, or thinking about what to eat next. The entire day opens up when you are not concerned with these things. This feeling is similar to the one I had when I swore off television—you realize how much time you have wasted. I experienced the same thing when I gave up smoking as well.

Even with all of this newfound time while fasting, it still seems that I spend most of it just sitting around, waiting for my water to filter.

There is a metaphor in there somewhere.

Continuing on the subject of time, it is just exactly that which fasting has taught me the most—that time is indeed precious and scarce.

Fasting forces us to think about how we fill the empty spaces, the silence.

It all comes down to how we have used our time. That has been and always will be how we assess the success of life. There is no quick fix. You can't get something for nothing. It all comes down to how we fill the seconds, the moments, the hours. These are the things that ultimately make up all of our days. And we live them.

Tuesday, April 01, 2008

Pure Honey

I tasted pure honey for the first time one summer at the age of twenty at Miller's food store in Lancaster. By "pure" I mean that I ate the honey without any accompaniment whatsoever. It was merely a drop, an accident really: I had spilled the tiniest amount while opening the jar and, without thinking, I licked it up. At the time, I had not eaten for three days—I was in the midst of a three-day water fast—and this isolated taste of honey was the most unexpected and pleasurable food experience I could have imagined.

Today, I eat pure honey by the spoonful—my preferred method of treating hypoglycemia, a side effect of self-administered insulin injections.

In August 2004, during my honeymoon in Barcelona, I was diagnosed with type-1 diabetes. Now, since my pancreas no longer produces its own insulin, I inject myself with insulin whenever I eat food. The purpose of the insulin is to stimulate my body's cells to take in glucose from the food I eat. (Glucose is a simple sugar, the main source of energy for the body). A second purpose is to notify my muscles and liver to keep the glucose stored—in other words, not to release it into my bloodstream.

Danger arises when the amount of insulin I inject exceeds the amount of sugar released into my bloodstream. Suddenly, my blood sugar plummets. I feel confused, woozy; as my sugar dips lower, I sweat profusely, lose my sense, begin to mumble, confusedly. This is hypoglycemia. If left untreated, it can lead to loss of consciousness, even death.

I dip into this danger-zone maybe four, five times a week: My blood sugar goes low and suddenly I must ingest sugar to compensate. I suppose I should drink fruit juice, or chew on a glucose tablet—both are easily accessible; both work quickly. Honey, on the other hand, is not always accessible, and it does not so work quickly. I suppose I'm stupid, or worse, stubborn: When my sugar is low, instead of drinking fruit juice, I eat honey.

It seems strange, even to me, considering the risks, but still, I prefer honey.

***

Diabetes mellitus is a Greek/Latin hybrid phrase. Early physicians noted that people with this disease seemed to urinate incessantly, as if they were siphons. Thus diabetes, the Greek word for "siphon". It was also noted that those who had this disease emitted a sweet smell from their pores, as well as their urine. Ants, especially, were attracted to the urine of diabetics. For centuries, to diagnose the disease, a doctor would taste the patient's urine for sweetness. Thus mellitus, the Latin word for honey.

Before the discovery of synthetic insulin, in 1921, a patient with diabetes mellitus wasted away with an unusual ferocity, marked by a voracious appetite and thirst completely out of line with their skeletal, yellowish appearance. Traditionally, the method of managing the disease was a diet low in carbohydrates and high in protein and fat, a solution that provided, at most, a few years stay on what was a certain death sentence.

Typically, as the end drew near, patients fell into a coma from which they never awoke, the same condition, I was told upon entering the hospital, that I would shortly succumb too without the immediate administration of insulin. In reality, the Barcelonian doctors surmised I should have already lapsed into a coma, so weakened was my body, so entirely suffused with sugar my blood.

How could I have let it get this bad?

At the time, I had no easy answer, although it now seems obvious. The signs had been clear for quite some time, dating back six weeks before I entered the hospital, when I arrived at my wedding looking like death itself. When I emerged from my car that afternoon my father's best friend Marty, the first person to see me in my tux, looked at me and said, "You look sick. Yellow. Gaunt."

This, in a heavy Brooklyn accent.

By then the sugar would have already escaped my blood stream, and the cells of my gradually failing organs would have been floating in a solution of glucose, a condition that made my breath, indeed my entire body, smell of an apple, recently bitten.

***

I was born in Lancaster and I often go back there to visit. Typically, I stop at Miller's, an Amish-owned natural food store. Inside, the atmosphere is dim and soundless, the only light the glow from the sun-filled windows, the only sound the whispers of the shoppers and, from time to time, the anachronistic cha-ching of the manual cash register.

Often, in my memory, it is stormy when I arrive at Miller's. I recall, for example, browsing the aisles one afternoon when a thunderclap split the sky, the windows darkened, and the solitary source of light was a bushel of fat, orange carrots.

The day I tasted pure honey, though, the sky was clear. I recall emerging from my car, shielding my eyes from the sun, and feeling incredibly warm—a warmth, I imagined, accessible only to the belly-empty, hollow-hungry.

I was hungry, more hungry then I had ever been, but after three days without food, I was becoming philosophical about hunger, and I had begun to look elsewhere for sustenance.

I recall, for example, looking at the environs around Miller's—the silo jammed with corn cobs, the green field full of pasturing goats, and, across the road, a plain of corn stretching for acres—and feeling my hunger ease for the moment, as if I were eating the view, nourishing myself with Lancaster farm imagery, instead of food.

Perhaps this is why, to me, fasting is such an arduous practice—it forces one to imagine himself out of hunger. And perhaps this is why so many artists complain of hunger and yet, at the same time, produce stunning, imaginative work.

Hemingway writes of imagination and hunger in his memoir of his early years in Paris, A Moveable Feast:

"You got very hungry when you did not eat enough in Paris because all the bakery shops had such good things in the windows and people ate outside at the tables on the sidewalks so that you saw and smelled the food…Then the best place to go was the…Luxembourg museum where all the paintings were sharpened and clearer and more beautiful if you were belly-empty, hollow-hungry. I learned to understand Cézanne much better and to see how truly he made landscapes when I was hungry. I used to wander whether he were hungry too when he painted; but I thought possibly it was only that he had forgotten to eat. It was one of those unsound but illuminating thoughts you have when you have been…hungry. Later I thought Cézanne was probably hungry in a different way."

Denied food, Hemingway sustained himself with Cézanne's paintings.

Living with a chronic disease like diabetes requires a similar feat of imagination. I was diagnosed—suddenly, my life was transformed. I had this thing, this new characteristic, something I'd just soon not have, not have to bother with, but there it was. And now I had to change everything about my life: the way I eat, the way I move about, the way I think about the future. I felt utterly unprepared.

***

It happened like this: I was healthy until I was twenty-four. At the time, I was living in Barcelona with my girlfriend Karen, surviving on my savings, writing my first novel, living the lifestyle I had envisioned for myself ever since leaving college, one credit short of graduation, with one question on my mind: How do I become a writer?

Then, in July, 2001, we traveled home, to Philadelphia, for a short stay. We had intended to return to Barcelona in late September, but we delayed our trip, indefinitely, after 9-11.

For weeks after this turn of events, I was bothered by the feeling that I had left some serious business unfinished in Barcelona. And so, even as my savings ran out, I continued working on my novel, essentially living my Barcelona lifestyle, albeit, a modified version, in my father's house, just outside of Philadelphia.

I had no car, so I never went anywhere, and I had little money, so I cut certain extravagances out of my life: wine, for example, and haircuts. With little else to do, I worked feverishly, completing two novels, beginning work on a third, subsisting primarily on hard-boiled eggs, on raw almonds, and cheap, local apples.

I have seldom felt so dynamic as I did then, long-haired and sober, working for hours in the day and night.

Then, in early spring, 2002, after a furious two-week burst that took me one-hundred pages deep into a second novel, I began to feel very odd. My symptoms were vague, mysterious. I imagined all sorts of problems, some real, some not. In the following years, I received a series of scary medical diagnoses. At twenty-five, it was Raynaud's Phenomena, at twenty-six, ulcerative colitis.

By the time I was twenty-eight, I was stuck in illness, like a fly in glue.

***

Where I lived in Lancaster, as a youngster, just out my back door, across our wide, green lawn there was a cornfield that seemed to stretch for miles. I spent my formative childhood years wandering around this cornfield, losing myself, often for hours.

Now, whenever I see an expansive cornfield, I feel the urge to walk straight in and keep on, just like I did as a child. This fanatical urge to walk, otherwise manifested in my life as the urge to suddenly abandon one place for another, is still with me, haunting me.

It is this urge, I believe, that led me to Barcelona, in January 2001. And I still remember my sense of purpose as I walked around the inner city, down Riera Alta, L'Hospital, Ferran, and many other streets and alleys, and later, returning to my flat on Calle Tamarit, as I recorded my impressions in a black composition book.

Upon returning, five years later for my honeymoon, my intent was to experience this sense of purpose anew, to relive the ambition I had cultivated as a younger man. And in fact my hope was realized, up to a point; for I have seldom felt so enlivened as I did upon returning to the city, swimming in the Mediterranean, feasting in the cafés, walking for hours through the bright, sun drenched streets, talking and joking with my new wife. And I still recall, as if it were yesterday, sitting in a little place called L'Hortet, eating an entire pizza, drinking red wine, and looking out the window, to the humming street, feeling as if, for the first time in my life, the world were actually conspiring to make me happy.

I wonder now, however, if I had not been influenced at the time by my condition; as the days passed, even as I slowly recovered my former verve, I began to feel astonishingly odd.

I recall, for example, a Friday night at a seaside grill, when, after eating a few slices of salted cod, and stepping to the curb to hail a taxi, I fell into a stupor, where a few white paper lanterns festooned below a red awning across the street appeared to me as a sole constellation of stars in a universe from which I was slowly receding into a hole, as black as pitch.

The next morning when I awoke and looked in the mirror it appeared as if my head had shrunk several sizes; my ribs seemed to be pulsating through my skin, which was yellow, or a shade of pale, somewhat beyond yellow; and I was more thirsty than I had ever been, unimaginably thirsty, as if a high powered vacuum were sucking the water out of my organs, indeed the very pulp from my bones.

Whatever the case, nearly three weeks after we arrived in Barcelona, I was taken into the hospital in a state of utter dissolution.

***

The French writer André Gide said that illness opens doors to a reality which remains closed to the healthy point of view. His implication is that illness intensifies experience.

If this is true, why did I feel so bereft, sitting in my hospital bed in Barcelona?

The doctor, a young man named Ruben, told me, "When you leave here, you will be a new man." But, at the time, I did not have the capacity to envision myself a new man—my imaginative faculties seemed suddenly broken.

Before this, for many years, I had cultivated the ability to imagine myself as a character in a myth of my own making. This character changed throughout the years, but the essence was always the same: my self-portrait included long hair, blue jeans, and a stoic countenance, and more often then not, I imagined myself walking down the street, having just finished work on my latest novel, in pursuit of wine, friends, and discussion.

When I received my diagnosis, however, I lost this sense of self-portrait. I no longer wanted to envision myself as anything, because I would be obliged to include this new wrinkle—this portrait of a disease.

Still, I tried: I contemplated the vanity of my wound, the odd superiority that an ill person allows himself to feel ever so often—the feeling that suffering, in itself, decrees a certain level of accomplishment and that living with illness is emblematic of triumph.

But, I could not get past my need for insulin. I could not square the vision of myself injecting insulin with the vision of myself living freely, as a writer, no doubt, should live.

And so, a few weeks after my diagnosis, I became increasingly troubled by the feeling that my life had been split in two. I thought: Never again, never will I be able to live as I once did. Never again will I swim with delight in the sea; never again will I feast on pasta in a café; never again, never again, never again.

***

Early on, I was attracted to mythology. I recall a time when I was six or seven years old, wearing a pair of leather sandals inspired by the film Clash of the Titans—an adaptation of the myth of Perseus—swashbuckling my way through an entire summer.

Even then, without realizing it, I was learning how to mythologize, how to imagine my life.

The mythological god most associated with ills and woundedness is Dionysus, the god of the wine harvest, of fertility, and blood. The myths say that the Titans gave Dionysus a mirror when he was young and then, when he was distracted, tore him up into pieces, boiled him in a cauldron, and ate him.

But Rhea, the mother of Zeus, saved Dionysus' heart and from it she reconstituted him and hid him in Zeus' thigh, from which he later sprang to life, reborn. To shelter the newly re-born Dionysus from the recriminations of the Titans, he was left in the care of a band of Maenads, the nymphs of the valley. They hid him in a cave, fed him honey, and raised him with tigers.

Like Dionysus, I was born twice: first, in a hospital in Lancaster, September 1976, and then again, twenty-eight years later, on brilliantly sunny Saturday in Barcelona.

And yet, if André Gide is right, if illness opens the doors to a reality which remains closed to the healthy point of view, for some time, my new, unexplored reality, my new life, was one of vacancy.

But I suppose it is absurd to say that my imaginative faculties broke. On the contrary, I was suffering the ills of imagination, always envisioning the scarier side of diabetes—the potential blindness, comas, and amputations—imagining myself deeply into my illness, never really attempting to imagine myself out.

And yet, isn't this is the essence of imagination?

As James Hillman writes in his book Re-Visioning Psychology: "The extraordinary fact of the imagination is just that it is truly extraordinary; no matter how known, it is always able to surprise, shock, horrify, or break into ravishing beauty."

We tend to think of imagination as a source of light, of wholeness, and inspiration. Doing so, we often neglect imagination's dark side: the blindness, the blankness, the missing limbs.

But is not the dark side necessary? Robert Bly writes of Dionysus in his book Iron John:

"Some of the Greek gods, Apollo and Zeus, for example, stand for wholeness, radiance, and sun-like integrity; but Dionysus stands for the ecstasy that can come from tearing and being torn. The ecstatic wine comes only if the cluster of grapes is torn apart, trampled..."

***

The older you get the more you'll find that everyone has something, something broken, something spooky. We are all struck, at some point, a bit torn, a bit trampled, by illness. And when this happens, it is impossible not to sink into yourself. When I began to receive my diagnoses, at twenty-five, I did not merely sink, I plunged, into myself.

I felt so isolated, betrayed by my body, and my imagination.

For some time, I wanted only to die.

But perhaps this plunge, this betrayal, is exactly what I needed.

What I mean is that I have the suspicion that, at some point, we all will, and must, feel this way: that we are meant to suffer isolation, to feel betrayed, and to want to die, just a bit, every day, but to want to live just a bit more, because life is not intended to dull us into submission, but to alert us, again and again, that life is living when it is felt deeply.

***

Dionysus, some myths say, was also the god of honey.

I think of my early love for myth, in Lancaster, how I played the roles of the heroes and gods of Greek myths. Alone, always alone, I wandered for hours, straight into the cornfield, seeking adventure, going on and on, until everything became corn, the sounds of the cicadas and the plows stopped all at once, the world sank into silence, and I knew I was the last human being on earth.

Isolated, six or seven years old, I imagined myself Perseus.

What could I imagine myself today?

Dionysus?

No, I am no longer own the boldness of my young self, the ability to envision myself god-like, or even heroic. I'm just a dude, trying to imagine myself a life. I'm not sure the characterization even matters; the important thing is the act itself: imagination.

Living the imaginative life, I think, is living the courageous life. Yes, it's tough. When we imagine we open ourselves up to assault; Like Hillman says, the possibility is always there: surprise, shock, horror.

But without the horror we'd never experience the alternative either: the ravishing beauty.

To me, this is the only way to survive.

Tuesday, March 11, 2008

The History of FoodVibe Part 2: How to Have Seth Over For Dinner

First, you cannot make that—that thing you wanted to make.Second, you cannot make anything that was once canned, frozen, or processed. No wheat. No dairy. And definitely no seafood.

One time, I had to call 911. He tried a grilled scallop at a backyard barbeque. His face looked like a red balloon. It was about to float away.

So you call him, invite him for dinner.

He says: “Really?”

You say: “Yes, really.”

“Ok. Um,” he says. “Wait. What are you making?”

“It’s a surprise,” you say. “Just wait and see.”

Then silence. Uncomfortable seconds pass without a word, tens of seconds. You can’t take it anymore. You fold, tell him everything. You include information about the type of salt you’ll use for the chicken brine. You divulge where the capers for the rice come from. You promise olives, some smoke.

"We'll even call Cogan," you say.

He pauses. He sighs deeply. “OK,” he says.

“Don't worry, I won't make anything that will kill you,” you say. “Or put you into a diabetic coma.”

You know full well that he doesn't believe you.

You also know he prefers when you agree to prepare, cook, and serve the food at his house. You know he likes his meals on his own turf. He’s weird about eating over at other peoples’ houses. It’s a certain type of agoraphobia, linked only to the kitchen: the slight anxiety of not being in total control of the meal. You know this. You plan ways to exploit this idiosyncrasy. This will give you joy and pleasure.

You like to fuck with him, lightly of course.

As you skin the chicken you think about that time in the car when he threw the gear shift into reverse while you were doing 60 on the highway. You remember how Cogan then covered your eyes with his hands from the back seat, screaming, "Yay, Stevie!"

You remember how you freaked.

You remember the times he dared you to eat strange, dangerous things at the mall food court.

Three Cinnabons in three minutes. Two McDonald's Happy Meal's in five minutes.

"I only want the toy," he told you.

You feel yourself getting excited, revved up. The meal will be a masterpiece.

***

So, he shows up with Karen. She is radiant, ebullient. She hugs you as she walks in. Her embrace says, “Don’t worry. Everything will be all right.”

You trust her. He comes in after her. Two identical bottles of wine protrude from the deep pockets of his hooded sweatshirt. He is smiling. His jeans are too tight. He asks if the wine is kosher. It is. You compliment his choice and let him in. He walks directly into the kitchen. You forcefully redirect him to the living room, where Karen and Merri are catching up.

He says, “When are we eating?”

Later he says, “Where's Cogan?”

He looks at your books while you cook. He finds your current notebook, filled with poetry. You speak to yourself loudly in the kitchen, knowing he can overhear you. You say: “Where's the can opener?”

He sprints into the kitchen. Eyes wild, nostrils flaring.

“What the fuck are you doing?” he demands.

“HA!” you say.

He retreats back the living room, smiling as he goes.

You can hear him telling Merri about the way you were in high school. He knows that you met her in college, and that she loves to hear these stories, now delegated to the realm of myth and hyperbole. When he speaks he flails his hands. In his stories, he uses definitive words like "always", "biggest ever", and "greatest".

"I'm glad I never knew him in high school," Merri says.

"So am I," he says.

Now the olive oil is frying in the pan. You add fresh garlic, taking in the cloud of steam and smoke that erupts. You feel hot pin pricks of oil spattering the soft underside of your wrist as you stir in the onions.

You think, “Who wouldn’t want to eat this?”

***

Before you cook, he'll insist on inspecting the ingredients. He’ll reject half of them. He might want you to drive back to Whole Foods for some small, obscure item that you overlooked. While cooking, he might stand over your shoulder. You must not let him do this. He’ll want to cook something. He’ll say he has to do this, that you must let him. It is important, he’ll say. Things depend on it.

“What things,” you ask.

“Things,” he says.

You must refuse him.

You must ask him to leave the kitchen.

In the other room, you hear Cogan enter. He glides into the kitchen.

He asks, "What's cookin'?" He calls you buddy. He smells clean, like shampoo.

***

Before everyone eats, he has to shoot his insulin. He does this while seated at the table. But you hate needles. They make you nervous. You look away. He dares you to stick your thumb into his little machine that pricks the finger for blood testing.

"No way," you say.

"Pussy," he replies.

Ten years ago, this would have immediately worked.

"Let me have some wine first," you say. You are older and wiser now.

The meal is about to begin. The evening is set, poised. The air is pregnant. This is the part you have been waiting for all week. Anything is possible. The four bottles of wine add a tinge of danger to the air. This is what you live for--instances like these, where food, friends, and space blend together to transform a moment in time into an event.

Seth senses the arrival of such a moment and is transformed himself. The denim of his tight jeans melts away and turns into brown fur. His legs shrink, wither, and taper at the end until his boots morph into small, cloven hooves. His facial features shift and sharpen. His smile broadens, exposing a mischievous, toothy grin. You can smell the faintest hint of trees, of running water. The table cloth spreads out to become the forest floor all around. You are now sitting at a sylvan gathering with Shakespeare's Puck, also known as Robin Goodfellow, that mad, merry prankster of the woodland. Strange, mystical creatures appear out of nowhere. A frog jumps into your lap. Puck rises. He dances on the table. He throws his voice. He grabs the potatoes and juggles them. Your guests are mystified. From somewhere, you hear music. Everyone starts to dance. Clothing falls to the floor. You look down and your wine is gone.

But now it's just Seth. When he's not looking, you fill his empty glass to the brim with wine. You put another, ridiculously large piece of chicken on his plate. He notices the chicken and laughs as he eats it, bones and all. He washes it down with the extra wine you’ve poured him and dares you to drink another glass with him. You're full. Your face is flushed red. Your ears are burning. You are lightheaded, stoned on your guests.

Suddenly he produces a small plastic bag of roast potatoes from somewhere on his body. He tries to switch them with the ones that are already on his plate--the ones you made. You were anticipating this little stunt, and make no reaction when you see it happening.

“What the hell,” you ask nonchalantly “is that?”

“Nothing,” he says curtly. “Don’t ask questions.”

But the time for fuckery is over. Now it is just time to laugh.

You demand an explanation for the contraband. He mumbles an answer that sounds fishy to you. You look at Karen. She rolls her eyes. Cogan giggles (he's been drunk since Tuesday). Merri just shakes her head.

You inspect the smuggled potatoes. You smell them. They smell like wine and insulin. You laugh and try to pour yourself more wine, but the bottle is empty. You tip your head back and hold the bottle several inches over your mouth, catching the last few drops on your tongue. They are gritty, acrid, full of sediment, just like this moment.

Now the meal is almost over. You uncork another bottle as he is licking his plate. You lean back in your chair to survey the scene. You lift up your glass to make a toast. You know exactly what to say.

Smuggler Boiled Potatoes with Raw Butter and Herbs

Weirdly, although Seth refuses to eat cow's milk dairy, he'll eat butter, especially if it's raw. These potatoes are the type he might smuggle into your house if you invite him for dinner. Smuggled potatoes must be made this way, according to Seth, or they'll lack "a sense of humor".

1 1/2 pounds fingerling potatoes
1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted raw butter
1/2 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
1/2 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper

Place potatoes in a medium saucepan. Cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer gently until potatoes are just tender when pierced with a knife, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain well.

While potatoes are simmering, heat the butter and olive oil in a large skillet over medium-low heat. When butter is melted, add the thyme, basil and parsley. Warm until herbs are fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add drained potatoes to skillet and toss with salt. Taste and adjust seasoning, adding additional salt and pepper if needed.

Monday, February 11, 2008

A Winter Menu

Winter, I think, is the best time to cook. Outside, it’s cold and dark. But inside, the kitchen is warm and full of light. I look out the window and think: What monster is out there, hiding? An owl hoots. I might mistake it for a freaky creature, wavering in the shadows. But inside, there's only my wife drinking wine, warmed, illumined.

I look at her. I smile. Clearly, she's no monster.

In winter, food navigates the evening; a good meal lights the way--to good conversation and laughter. I cook, I eat, and I feel somehow brightened.

Funny, though, winter food leads you elsewhere too: into dark, wild realms.

I'm thinking of the moment I step into the kitchen to steal more wine. I've just shared a soul-satisfying meal with my wife--a roasted chicken, perhaps. I come back and the dining room's suddenly dark. There's my wife, waiting, suddenly naked. Clearly, she's feeling inspired. It's the food, the wine. Clearly, she's a monster.

Winter food does this too--it inspires the uncomplicated urge to make love.

In his novel, A Debt to Pleasure, John Lanchester writes:

"It is a common fallacy to assume that winter food should partake of the obvious associations evoked by winter: large viscid stews, unspillably thick soups, colossal puddings. One wants to be warmed, true, but one also wants to be reminded of better times; to feel the onset of dawn in the darkest hour that immediately precedes it."

This winter menu is intended to give a sense of warmth and light, even as it hints elsewhere, to secret, dark places.

I suggest serving the meal with a lightly cooked green vegetable (check out my recipe for Pan-Seared Summer Squash…)

Sweet Potato and Fennel Soup with Saffron

I've adapted this recipe from The Artful Vegan, a mostly inaccessible cookbook with a few stellar recipes. This is a model soup for Valentine's Day. It includes a few heady aphrodisiacs: smoky, sweat inspiring chipotle; expensive, potent saffron; virile, pungent garlic; and two alcohols, dry white wine and Pernod...

12 whole garlic cloves
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 yellow onion, diced
Sea salt
1 teaspoon ground chipotle chile
1 teaspoon sugar
1/3 teaspoon saffron threads, soaked in 1 tablespoons warm water
1 cup dry white wine (Sauvignon Blanc is a good choice)
1 large sweet potato, peeled and cut into 1/2 inch dice
2 fennel bulbs, cut into 1/2 inch dice
1/4 Arborio rice
1 tablespoon tomato paste
7 cups fresh vegetable stock
1 tablespoon Balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoon Pernod
Fresh ground pepper

Place the garlic cloves in a dry sauté pan over high heat. Dry-toast until each clove is charred, about 3-4 minutes. Remove from the heat.

In a soup pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and a pinch of salt, and sauté until translucent, 5-7 minutes. Add the chipotle chile, sugar, and charred garlic. Sauté for 2 minutes. Add the saffron and its soaking liquid. Add the white wine and stir to scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Add the sweet potato, fennel, rice, 1 teaspoon salt, tomato paste, and stock. Decrease the heat to medium-low. Cover and simmer for 40 minutes, or until the fennel is soft.

Puree in a blender.

Add the Balsamic and Pernod. Add salt and fresh ground pepper to taste.

Serves 6-8

It takes more than four thousand manually harvested stigmas to provide a single ounce of saffron--the world's most expensive spice


Rack of Lamb

Rack of lamb is emblematic of the perfect winter dish: it is intensely warming, deep and satisfying, but it also hints towards a lighter time, to the Paschal lamb of spring. Rack of lamb is also wildly inspiring. I for one cannot eat rack of lamb without feeling charged, full of demonic lust. Lamb is often served with a dipping sauce. I prefer a small bowl of olive oil, mixed with a few aromatics.

2 (8 or 9 rib) racks of lamb, rib bones French trimmed
Salt and fresh ground black pepper
2 teaspoons olive oil

Dipping Oil:

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons fresh lemon zest
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
4 teaspoons fresh parsley, chopped
Sea Salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Season the lamb generously with salt and pepper to taste. Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed 12-inch skillet over high heat until shimmering. Place the racks of lamb in the skillet, meat-side down in the center of the pan, with the ribs facing outward. Cook until well browned, about 4 minutes. Using tongs, stand the racks up in the skillet, leaning them up against each other to brown the bottoms; cook until the bottoms have browned, about 2 minutes longer.

Transfer the pan to the oven.

Roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of each rack registers about 120 degrees for medium-rare or 130 degrees for medium, 12 to 15 minutes, depending on the size of the rack.

Remove the racks from the oven, cover the meat loosely with foil, and let rest about 10 minutes.

Make the dipping oil. In a small bowl combine olive oil, lemon zest, balsamic vinegar, parsley, and a pinch of salt and fresh ground pepper.

Carve the rack, slicing between the ribs into individual chops.

Serves 2 awesome people, or 4 wimps.


Roasted Red Potatoes with Olive Oil & Fresh Herbs

Like the lamb this dish too points towards a better time. Fresh herbs and lemon zest brighten the potatoes, even as they intensify the flavor of the olive oil...

1 ½ lb small red creamer potatoes
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided
2 tablespoons fresh herbs—basil, thyme, and/or marjoram
1 teaspoon lemon zest
Sea Salt, fresh ground pepper

Preheat oven to 425°F.

Cover potatoes with salted cold water by 1 inch in a 6-quart pot, then simmer, uncovered, until just tender, 6-8 minutes.

Slice potatoes in half. Toss potatoes with 1 tablespoon olive oil and a few pinches salt in a bowl. Spread potatoes in 1 layer in a large roasting pan, skin side up, and roast in middle of oven, turning once, until golden, about 20-25 minutes. Toss with remaining tablespoon olive oil, herbs, sea salt, lemon zest, and fresh pepper to taste.

Monday, December 10, 2007

Drink Wine: Make Friends, Destroy Yourself

One time, in Barcelona, I drink about five bottles of $1 red wine. Here's what happens:

Karen and I are looking for a place to live. I see an ad at the university.

I still have a copy so I'll quote verbatim:

For Rent!
Luxury rooms in share flat.

Free breakfasts and dinners.

Vinos and champagne.

Game room.
Dancing room.
TV’s, telephones, heatings.

Maid server very morning.

English, Catalan, Spanish speaking.

Much Respect. 20.000 PTAS!!!
Call Javier.

20.000 pesetas is shockingly cheap. Is this guy Javier fucking with me? Of course, he's fucking with me. But Karen and I have already spent a month looking for a flat. We're living in a room in a pensión. It's cold, our funds are disastrously low, and we're starting to hate each other.

So I call Javier.

That night, he shows up on the street outside the pensión. He’s standing perfectly still in the rain, smoking a cigarette, and staring at the pensión door. Smoke curls up, hovers over his face. The look is suggestive of menace. But clear the smoke, he’s no menace. In fact, he seems downright giddy, his eyes glued to the pensión door as if he were awaiting the emergence of The Utterly Fantastic.

Which, judging by what happens next, would be Karen.

We go down and meet him.

"Please," he says. "Please. I am very sorry."

He bows and breaks into a shrill giggle. It’s disturbing, highly infectious. I try not to laugh, but the giggle is so addictive. I bite my lip, take a good look at him. He’s Peruvian; no, he’s Moroccan; no, maybe, Egyptian. The giggling is obscene, but beyond this, there’s a certain inappropriateness in his gestures. The best I can say, he’s incredibly foreign. I imagine him wandering the streets, peddling Kleenex.

So I shake his hand.

Then he takes a look at Karen. The giggle hits a crescendo. It’s absurd. He puts his hand on his heart. He swoons.

I burst into laughter.

So now we’re both hysterical, Javier and I. We’re standing in the rain, looking at Karen, and giggling.

And Karen?

Well, clearly, she's freaked.

Still, we go to Javier's flat.

There's no dancing room, no game room.

I ask, "Where's the dancing room?"

He says, "All the beautiful people!"

So I walk down the hallway, poke my head in the kitchen. They're two people, sitting at a table. I'm astonished. There's Aimee. She's from Long Beach, she's ridiculously cool, and she actually lives in Javier's flat. And there's Pablo. He's from Buenos Aires, he's probably my doppelgänger, and he too lives in Javier's flat.

So we sit down. Javier puts wine on the table. It’s called Vinya Del Fadrí. I’ve seen it before in the supermarket, Champion, for 150 pesetas (one US dollar, more or less.)

I recall having said to Karen, “Let’s buy ten bottles.”

And now I think of this moment with disbelief, because Javier has done just that: he has bought ten bottles, perhaps more, and on top of each unopened bottle he is placing a tall, burning candle. He lights a candle, melts the other end, and affixes it on a bottle. He repeats this gesture with five or six more bottles.

Then he puts tumblers on the table, opens a bottle, and pours each glass to the brim. One more drop, the glass overflows. I put my head down, slurp from the top. No sooner do I sip than Javier refills the glass. I bend to sip, he pours more. I sip again, he pours more.

This happens three or four times.

Finally, I put my hand over the glass.

Javier waits until I remove it and pours more.

"Please drink," Javier says. "In my flat, is normal."

So I sip. And Javier pours more wine. I sip because I want to drink. And Javier pours more because, well, I assume he wants me to drink.

Another thirty minutes, I’m drunk.

Meanwhile, Javier makes food. He makes a huge, composed salad. He makes pasta with a spicy red sauce. He serves it in large bowls, with a fried egg on top. It’s odd, addictive. I devour mine. I finish Karen's. I lick Pablo and Aimee's plates clean.

What am I doing?

I don’t care. I've hit that red-wine plateau when the evening is full of possibility, when everything promises benevolence and hope. I’m fabulously happy. I go to the bathroom. On my way, I drop to the floor, do fifty push-ups.

Alone, in the bathroom, I amuse myself with visions of large numbers.

“One billion,” I say. “One trillion!”

I come back and there's Pablo, sipping from a full glass of wine, there's Aimee, clearly amused, and there's Karen, talking to Javier, still clearly freaked.

And there's Javier making more food.

Next comes the fish, a huge sizzling platter of fried onion and flesh.

I eat so much I need to drink wine. I drink so much I need to quote several lines from the Chinese poets.

“Everywhere I go I owe money for wine,” I say.

“Everyday I am drunk all day long,” I say.

Pablo observes this spectacle with a certain look of pleasure. I can tell, he finds me petulant and rowdy. I already like him. In fact, from the moment I see him, I sense my life is about to become more interesting, in the sense that Pablo seems like the kind of guy who I can sit down and share a few bottles of wine with and later part with a handshake, a few good laughs, and a jab in the ribs.

So I look at him, give him a triumphant arm-raising gesture.

In this way, quoting the Chinese poets, pumping my arm into the air, and happily eating, I drink five bottles of $1 wine.

And in this way, over the course of six or seven ridiculous hours, I cement a few life-long friendships.

***

We all have similar experiences. We share a fabulous occasion with someone and we become fabulous friends. Some might say it's the occasion that inspires friendship. Some might say, obviously, that people inspire friendship. Of course, I agree.

But when I look back to the birth of my greatest friendships, I also see a lot of wine. I see that moment when the evening is full of possibility, when everything promises benevolence and hope, and I look at my new friend and think: I fuckin' love this person!

I edited Steve's last post on beer. Foolishly, I inserted one of my most treasured lines: "There's nothing quite as unifying as sharing horrid beer." I'm taking that line back and restoring its proper meaning. That line should read: "There's nothing quite as unifying as sharing wine."

Beer, of course, creates unity. But beer is for the frat-boy, the guy who needs to create elaborate rituals and games (beer bong, circle of death, etc...) to induce "brotherhood" and friendship. These games strike me as weirdly competitive: Like frat boys, they're full of anger and shouts. I never made a friend over beer pong, although I certainly made a few enemies.

I've never really played a wine game. What's the point? I don't drink wine to get drunk. I drink wine to talk. The only wine "game" I know is this one: Let's see how much we can fall in love by the end of this bottle of wine.

***

In Greek mythology there's this guy Dionysus. You know he's kick-ass because he's the son of Zeus--The King of Gods. Here's what happens:

Zeus makes love to Persophone, The Queen of the Underworld. She gives birth to Dionysus. Zeus' wife, Hera, discovers the baby. Of course, she's full of jealous rage. So she sends the goddamn Titans (of all people!) to eat the baby.

The Titans are mushroom cloud-laying motherfuckers. They don't mess around.

Here's what they do:

They give Dionysus a mirror. He's mesmerized. He's so mesmerized, in fact, that he totally misses the bum rush. The Titans sneak up on him, tear him up, boil him in a cauldron, and eat him.

Only thing, Rhea, the mother of Zeus, saves Dionysus' heart. She gives it to Zeus.

Imagine this: Your Mom gives you the beating heart of your child. Somebody's devoured the rest of him. The heart is all that's left.

So you're Zeus, what do you do?

You hide the heart in your thigh.Sometime later, your son bursts out, reborn. Then, to shelter the newly re-born Dionysus from the recriminations of the Titans, you leave him in the care of a band of nymphs. The nymphs hide him in a cave, feed him honey, and raise him with tigers.

Soon, though, that jealous nut Hera finds Dionysus. Showing no mercy, she twists his brain, leaving him outrageous. So Dionysus suddenly rejects the gentle nymphs and instead chooses as his companions the satyrs (see below) and the maenads, wild women with wicked, gleaming eyes.


A bald, bearded, horse-tailed satyr balances a winecup on his erect penis. In Greek mythology Satyrs are often associated with sex and vase-painters often portray them with uncontrollable erections.

He travels abroad. He fights battles. He subdues entire continents. Here and there, he plants vines. He discovers wine. He invents the wild party.

Upon his return to Greece, Rhea drives the madness from his brain, but it's too late. Though calmed, Dionysus never gives up his former life. He's too attached to his companions and the common bond they shared: their love of revelry and wine.

This is the early life of Dionysus, the God of Wine.

Kick-ass.

***

In his book
Iron John Robert Bly writes:

Dionysus is the Greek god most connected with wounds and woundedness...Some of the other Greek gods, Apollo and Zeus, for example, stand for wholeness, radiance, and sun-like integrity; but Dionysus stands for the ecstasy that can come from tearing and being torn apart.

Dionysus is the clump of grapes that hands tore apart in the Greek villages and threw into the wine vat. When the men and women were trampling on those grapes, it is known that they would sing: 'O Dionysus, I did not know, I did not know.' When cattle culture came to Greece, the village people ritually killed a bull in the spring, and as they ate the raw flesh, spoke the name 'Dionysus' over and over.


We tend to think of wine as a sophisticated drink, but when we do we neglect its wild origins. Other drinks might represent wholeness and purity (distilled vodka, for example) but wine represents the ecstasy of tearing and being torn apart. Wine is the drink of the wounded god Dionysus and his wild community, where self-obliteration is a way of life.

Self-obliteration?

Follow the metaphor of the grape: Sooner or later, youthful sweetness is trampled, torn apart. And then we make wine. Wine improves with age. Wine gets richer, fuller. Imagine, you're Dionysus. Or maybe you're young and living in Barcelona. You're still one big nerve with a mouth at one end and a wing at the other. But your heart will get bigger. A glass of wine, really, might just be the perfect metaphor for what you might become: mature, bold, intoxicating.

So you got out, seeking obliteration. This is not nearly the same as getting drunk. In fact, it's the thing most opposite of getting drunk. When you get drunk, you destroy unintentionally: you foolishly break things, you haphazardly fuck things.

When you self-obliterate, though, you break with intention: You destroy in order to create.

You're Picasso (an avid wine-drinker) painting the
Les Demoiselles d'Avignon; you're Rimbaud (an avid wine drinker) fucking around Paris, writing ridiculous lines:

Once, if my memory serves me well, my life was a banquet where every heart revealed itself, where every wine flowed.

One evening I took Beauty in my arms--and I thought her bitter--and I insulted her.


Possibly, though, you're just You, drinking wine. You're pumping your fist, getting into strange encounters, loving, and, yes, getting drunk. But when you wake up the next day, after five $1 bottles of wine, don't you feel a little bit re-vivified?
Sure, you wake up, your head hurts, and you feel a little sick, but your heart--Oh, your heart feels fantastic!

You're light, giddy.

Sometimes you want to feel like this--utterly destroyed, each part of you throbbing with pain, but your heart.